Metal Earth T34 Tank

When building my first metal earth model I soon realised the hard part of these models is when you need to create circular shapes. This put me off of tackling the rest of my t34 model for a while.

I decided to get on a finish this model so it was time to tackle the road wheels on this kit.


The road wheels consist of a metal sheet rolled into a tube with a circular cap attached to the front of them. A final metal piece goes on top to hold it all together. These were very fiddly and some took several attempts to put together.


Although smaller the gears at each end of the tank were easier to attach as these were only made of two pieces.


The tracks went on pretty easy as these were just wrapped around the wheels and held onto the back plate that the wheels are attached to.  The complete set of wheels with tracks were then attached to each side of the hull.

One thing I could of got better was the road wheels. They do not sit on the track properly because of the metal tabs sticking out of the bottom of them.


Given that this kit only cost around £6 I am very impressed with the outcome and detail. These are a nice alternative to plastic models as they require a different skill set and can be built pretty quickly.


Next up I am building the himeji castle for my girlfriend.

Some more Metal Earth building

I have finished my first Metal Earth kit and all things considered it turned out well.


I learned a lot from this first kit which will improve my future builds.


The main thing I learned was that using screw drivers of different diameters is a great way of creating the cylinder Continue reading Some more Metal Earth building

3D Printer Part 1

3D printers have been exciting things to follow for a while now and when I found there were kit versions available to build I thought it would be a great thing to do.

Not only can I use a 3D printer to create even more models but it also could serve some more practical purposes as well.

 The Table Base

This build starts with the area that the model will be printed on.


We start with the supporting structure that sits under the surface the model is printed on. The structural parts are all transparent acrylic which will mean you can see the printer mechanisms working as it prints a model.


Washers are added to each reinforcing plate to enable them to be attached to the table base.


The reinforcing plates are then screwed onto the table base. I had to be mindful not to screw the screws in too tightly as this could crack the acrylic.


A metal plate which is part of one of the limit switches added at a later part it attached to the side of the table base.


Next The upper section of the table base is prepared to be attached to the lower table base. Screws are screwed into each of the conical holes.


The upper base is then flipped over and a spring between two washers is added to each screw.


The two table base sections are then attached with nuts.


The nuts can then be tightened to put pressure onto the springs in order to change the alignment of the table base.

The Y limit Switch


Lastly the right side panel is unwrapped and the y limit switch circuit board is attached to the panel with some screws and nuts. Spacers are used to keep the circuit board away from the acrylic.

In 3D printers limit switches are used to determine the point of origin for an axis that the printer moves on.

I already have the second pack of parts for my printer so part 2 should follow soon!

Finishing the Blitzer Beetle


I had some trouble with the brush-less motor when testing the car where accelerating or reversing would cut out the electronics. I managed to sort this by Continue reading Finishing the Blitzer Beetle