The crankcase is the first part of the GX21 Nitro engine which will power my Red Bull 7 model. The GX21 is a 2 stroke engine capable of producing about 1.8bhp.
The crankcase currently contains the carburetor attaching screw and two ball bearings.
With the next batch of parts I get the crankshaft piston, cylinder head and rear engine plate.
I finally got started on my 1:8 Kyosho Hummer H1 Subscription.
At the moment I have ignored that actual components of the car itself and worked on the body.
Making the side frames
Pegs are useful for holding the part in place whilst the plastic cement sets.
The frame is now ready for the panels to be attached.
Panels attached and ready for painting.
I started by spraying some mist coats
I decided to paint the Hummer the classic yellow they are often seen in.
Side view
You may have seen a long time ago I made a post with a load of blue aluminium upgrades for my tt01 car. Well I completely forgot about the oil filled shocks shown in that post and have just got round to building them and installing them.
The process for building the 3Racing shocks is pretty standard to any others I have built and the parts were of good quality.
Even the spring was easy to fit which can be a right pain going by the ones I built for the Red Bull car.
These only took a few minutes to build. I think I spent longer waiting for the bubbles in the oil to disappear than anything else. They replace the standard friction dampers you get in most Tamiya kits.
Recently I have been doing some work on my tt01 to finish upgrading and repair it.
Here I have brought some work rims and fitted HPI super drift tyres to them to give the wheels a more customised look than the Tamiya ones that came with the model.
Fitting the tyres to rims is easier said than done. You can heat up the tyres in a saucepan to make them soft enough to snap right on but I have not been brave enough to attempt that yet.
I use a screw driver to work my way round the wheel fitting it into the tyre a bit at a time.
The wheels come with a sticker sheet but at the moment I think they look better as they are without the stickers.
I have fitted the rear wheel hubs and dog bones to the car.
The rear wing has also been fitted although this is the display wing. A separate (more durable?) wing is provided for driving around with.
Another flight with my H107CHD quadcopter.
This time it was sunny with a slight breeze.
I have continued to get used to flying this quadcopter with faster flying more turns and low altitude flight.
Here is a new video of another flight in my Hubsan H107CHD Quadcopter.
Weather was overcast with a little wind. I took it up a bit higher this time and got some nice views.
I picked up this kit last week in the modelzone sale but only just received the additional parts needed to complete the model.
It was about half the going price online and eBay.
The box shows it painted white and red but I decided to go for white and orange instead.
The free bonus parts included are ball race bearings. Its pretty handy seeing as the first thing I usually do is replace Tamiya’s crappy plastic/bronze bushings with bearings.
Aside from the paint, I also needed to order a servo for the steering and a radio receiver. As usual I went for a Spektrum receiver in the hope of unifying all my radio gear under one compatible type.
I wanted to make my Twin Hammers more unique so I started by replacing the standard plastic body with a set of aluminium body panels.
I decided to paint the panels in a basic desert camo scheme of sand and earth.
Some decals were applied to the side panels to add a bit of detail.
I also replaced the vehicle race number plates on the back of the vehicle with recovery boards. These are also aluminium and were painted desert yellow.
To complete the new look I ordered a pack of rock crawler accessories from eBay and strapped some gear to the roof and recovery boards with bungee chords .
My repair to my monster trucks manifold was not good enough and it simply became detached again. This time I used permanent threadlock to seal the nuts to the manifold holding it in place. The only way you are supposed to be able to get threadlock off is with a heat gun meaning the engine vibrations will not loosen it.
Shane's Shed 